M & S Pilling test method – II, I.C.I. pill box

Pilling test method – II (Marks & Spencer)
PURPOSE: To evaluate the potential of fabric to pill.
APPARATUS:
1. I.C.I. pill box (speed 60 rpm +/- 2 rpm) with standard cork as specified in BS5811: 1986.
2. Molded Polyurethane pilling tubes.
3. Specimen mounting jig (see Equipment List Ref 13O and note 2).
4. Photographic standards, woven or knitted as applicable.
5. Marks & Spencer template for specimen preparation.
6. Lock or chain stitch sewing machine.
7. White PVC tape 19mm wide.
8. Pilliscope.
9. Soft brush.
10. Standard maintenance fabric.

Test Specimen:
Fabrics for washable garments should be washed as described in Method of Test P16 “ Washing Prior to Pilling Methods I and II”. If applicable record any changes that may occur during washing, e g. fuzzing, matting, surface disturbance.
Using the template mark and cut four squares 125 mm x 125 mm. A sample approximately 190 mm x 60 mm should be kept fpr use during assessment. Avoid fabric within 50 mm of the selvedge.
Mark the length direction of the fabric on the back of each square to ensure accurate preparation and mounting of the specimens.
Where a fabric has no discernable face, test both side.
METHOD:
1. Prepare two length and two width specimens by folding in half, ensuring the face is on the inside.
2. Sew a seam parallel to tie fold (12 mm from the dut edge) to form a tube with an open seam.
3. Cut 10 mm from one end to make the samples 115mm long.
4. Turn the four specimens face outwards.
5. Mount the four specimens on to the polyurethane tubes. To avoid unnecessary handling of the specimens always:
a) Collapse the tube onto the two pronged jig.
b) Push the metal sleeve over the tube.
c) Slide a specimen with the seam opened out and fixed onto the sleeve.
d) Hold the specimen gently and remove the sleeve leaving the specimen firmly mounted (not loose or tight) on the tube with an equal amount of polyurethane protruding at each end.
e) Remove the tube from the jig.
6. To secure the specimen to the tube apply to each end a PVC tape of sufficient length to wrap around one and a half times so that 6 mm of polyurethane tube is visible at each end.
7. Clean out the pill box with a soft brush.
8. Place the set of four tubes on one pilling box.
9. Run the box for the required revolutions as specified un the appropriate performance standard.
10. After testing, remove the specimens. Examine the inside of the box and record the presence of any loose pills and fabric debris.
11. Carefully remove the PVC tape.
12. Cut along the seam to remove the specimen from the tubes.
13. Trim the untested areas covered by the tape.
ASSESSMENT:
1. Grading should be carried out in the dark room or curtained of area.
2. Select the appropriate woven or knitted photographic standards for use in the pilliscope.
3. Grade each specimen in turn by placing in the pilliscope and compare the degree of pilling against the standard photographs. Record the grade.
4. Mount the graded specimens by stapling on to size A4 card. Mount the strip of untested fabric across the card between the two pairs of specimens.